Karanphool and Jhumka: The Earrings of the Deccan

Few pieces of jewellery are as recognisable across India as the jhumka, and few are as graceful as the karanphool. In the Deccan, the two often come together as one earring: a flower at the ear, and a bell below. Here is the story of these two forms and how to wear them comfortably.

Karanphool: the ear flower

"Karanphool" means "ear flower". It is a stud-style earring shaped like a blossom, sitting flat on the earlobe. Karanphools are often set with polki, pearls, rubies or emeralds, arranged like petals around a central stone.

In Hyderabadi jewellery, the karanphool is associated with the refinement of the Nizami style. It can be worn alone, as an elegant stud, or as the top of a longer earring. Read Nizami Jewellery: A Short History of Hyderabad's Royal Style.

The jhumka bell

The jhumka is a bell-shaped or dome-shaped earring that hangs from the ear, often with a fringe of pearls, beads or small gold drops around the rim. As it moves, it catches the light and sometimes makes a soft sound.

Jhumkas are worn across India, but they are especially loved in South Indian and Deccan jewellery. In Telugu, they are often called buttalu, and they are an essential part of a Telugu bride's look. Read Jhumkas: Sizes, Weights and Daily Wear vs Bridal.

The karanphool jhumka, a flower stud with a bell hanging below, combines the two forms and is a classic of Deccan style.

Regional variations

• Hyderabadi: karanphools and jhumkas with pearls, polki and emeralds, reflecting Nizami taste.
• Telugu: plain gold or temple-style buttalu, often with Lakshmi or peacock motifs. See Temple Jewellery.
• Tamil and Kerala: jhumkas with kemp stones or plain gold, often layered in multiple tiers.
• North Indian and Rajasthani: larger jhumkas with kundan or meenakari work.

Each region's style reflects its own traditions, but the basic forms remain recognisable everywhere.

Weight and comfort

Traditional karanphool jhumkas, especially bridal pairs, can be heavy. A few tips help:

• Use a sahara: a small chain that loops from the earring into the hair to share the weight. See Chandbali Earrings for more on saharas.
• Choose hollow or lighter designs for long days.
• Check the backs: secure screw backs support heavier earrings better than push backs.
• Wear heavy pairs for shorter periods and switch to lighter earrings for the rest of the day.
• Consider lightweight versions for daily wear, such as small plain gold jhumkas.

For daily wear, look at Everyday Lightweight Gold Jewellery.

Karanphools, jhumkas and karanphool jhumkas in gold, pearl and polki are among the pieces you can see at Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet.

Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet

Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008

Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8:30pm
Phone: +91 88855 00805
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