Nizami Jewellery: A Short History of Hyderabad's Royal Style
Few cities have a jewellery tradition as rich as Hyderabad's. For more than two centuries, the city was ruled by the Nizams, whose courts became famous across the world for their wealth and their jewels. The style that grew from that world, often called Nizami jewellery, still shapes what Hyderabad families wear today.
The Deccan before the Nizams
Hyderabad's jewellery story begins before the Nizams. Under the Qutb Shahi dynasty, which founded Hyderabad in the late sixteenth century, the Deccan was already known for two treasures: diamonds from the Golconda region and a thriving trade in pearls.
The Qutb Shahis built Charminar and the bazaars around it, and those lanes became centres of trade in gems, pearls and gold. That trade continued, and grew, when the Asaf Jahi dynasty, the Nizams, came to rule Hyderabad in the early eighteenth century.
Golconda diamonds and Basra pearls
Two materials define the Nizami style.
Golconda diamonds were mined in the Deccan and traded through Golconda, near Hyderabad, for centuries. They were prized for their exceptional clarity, and several of the world's most famous diamonds are believed to have come from the region. Read Golconda Diamonds: Mines, Legends and What Golconda Means Today.
Basra pearls, natural pearls from the waters of the Persian Gulf, were traded through Hyderabad and treasured at court. Their soft lustre became central to Hyderabadi jewellery, and the city grew into a major centre for pearl sorting, drilling and stringing. Read Hyderabadi Pearls: Why the City Is India's Pearl Capital.
Emeralds, rubies and polki (uncut diamonds) completed the palette, often set in gold using jadau techniques.
Signature forms: satlada, chandbali, karanphool
Certain forms are closely associated with Nizami style:
- Satlada: a necklace of seven strands of pearls, often with a pendant of diamonds, emeralds or polki. Read Satlada, Ranihaar and the Classic Hyderabadi Necklaces.
- Chandbali: crescent-moon earrings, typically decorated with pearls and stones. See Chandbali Earrings: The Hyderabadi Icon Explained.
- Karanphool: flower-shaped earrings, sometimes worn with a supporting chain. See Karanphool and Jhumka.
- Jugni and pendants: statement centrepieces set with polki and coloured stones.
The court and the bazaar
The royal collections were extraordinary, but Hyderabadi jewellery was never only for royalty. The same bazaars that supplied the court also served the city's families, and styles that began at court were adapted by local jewellers for weddings and festivals.
Much of the Nizams' jewellery collection is now owned by the Government of India and held in the custody of the Reserve Bank of India, with pieces exhibited on rare occasions. In Hyderabad, the Salar Jung Museum offers a rich view of the city's decorative arts and the world of its nobility.
Nizami style today
Today, the Nizami style lives on in Hyderabadi bridal jewellery, particularly in pearl strands, polki and emerald work, chandbalis and satladas. Many families choose these pieces for weddings, and they pass them down as heirlooms.
At Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet, whose story began at Charkaman near Charminar in 1920, these traditions are part of our heritage. For a guide to the terms you will hear, read The Language of Hyderabadi Jewellery: A 40-Term Glossary.
Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet
Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8:30pm
Phone: +91 88855 00805
WhatsApp: Message us on WhatsApp
Instagram: @tibarumalandsons
