Hyderabadi Pearls: Why the City Is India's Pearl Capital
Hyderabad is often called the City of Pearls. For centuries, pearls have been traded, sorted, drilled and strung here, and they remain one of the most loved elements of Hyderabadi jewellery. This guide explains how Hyderabad became the pearl city, the types of pearls you will find, how to tell real from imitation, and how to care for them.
How Hyderabad became the pearl city
Pearls are not found in Hyderabad's waters. The city's pearl tradition was built on trade and craft. Under the Qutb Shahi dynasty and later the Nizams, natural pearls, particularly from the Persian Gulf, were brought to Hyderabad, where the royal courts were among their greatest patrons.
Over time, the city developed exceptional skill in the pearl trade: sorting pearls by size and quality, drilling them precisely, and stringing them into necklaces. The lanes around Charminar, including Pathergatti, became known for pearl shops, and Hyderabad's reputation spread across India. Read Nizami Jewellery: A Short History of Hyderabad's Royal Style for more.
Types of pearls sold here
- Natural pearls: formed without human help. Historic Basra pearls fall into this category. Today they are rare and valuable.
- Cultured freshwater pearls: grown in freshwater mussels. They come in many shapes and sizes and are the most affordable real pearls.
- Akoya pearls: cultured saltwater pearls known for their round shape and bright lustre.
- South Sea and Tahitian pearls: larger cultured saltwater pearls, in white, golden and dark tones, at the higher end of the market.
Most pearl jewellery sold today uses cultured pearls. That is not a drawback: cultured pearls are real pearls, formed by an oyster or mussel.
How to tell real from imitation
Imitation pearls are made from glass, plastic or shell beads with a pearly coating. A few simple checks can help:
- The tooth test: rub a pearl gently against the edge of your tooth. Real pearls usually feel slightly gritty; imitations feel smooth.
- Temperature: real pearls often feel cool at first touch and warm up on the skin.
- Look closely: real pearls usually have tiny surface variations. Perfect uniformity can be a warning sign.
- Drill holes: on imitations, the coating may chip or peel around the hole.
- Weight: real pearls tend to feel heavier than plastic imitations.
These checks are a guide, not proof. For valuable pearls, buy from a trusted jeweller and ask about certification.
Grading and pricing
Pearl prices depend on several factors:
- Type: natural, freshwater, akoya or South Sea.
- Size: larger pearls are rarer and more expensive.
- Shape: perfectly round pearls are the most valued.
- Lustre: the depth and sharpness of the shine.
- Surface: fewer blemishes mean higher value.
- Matching: in necklaces, well-matched pearls cost more.
Caring for pearls
Pearls are softer than other gems and need gentle care:
- Put them on last, after perfume, hairspray and makeup.
- Wipe them with a soft cloth after each wear.
- Store them flat and separately, away from harder jewellery that can scratch them.
- Avoid long exposure to heat and dryness.
- Have strands restrung every so often if worn regularly.
Pearl strands, chandbalis and satladas are among the traditional Hyderabadi pieces you can see at Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet.
Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet
Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8:30pm
Phone: +91 88855 00805
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Instagram: @tibarumalandsons