What Makes Hyderabadi Jewellery Different from Jaipur, Kolkata or Chennai Styles

India has many great jewellery traditions, and each city has its own signature. Hyderabad, Jaipur, Kolkata and Chennai are four of the best known. This guide explains what makes Hyderabadi jewellery distinctive, how it compares with the other three, and how to mix styles well.

Hyderabad

Hyderabadi jewellery is shaped by the courts of the Qutb Shahis and the Nizams, and by the city's long history as a centre of the pearl and diamond trade.

Signatures:

• pearls, above all, in strands, fringes and clusters. See Hyderabadi Pearls,
• polki and diamonds, linked to the legacy of Golconda. See Golconda Diamonds,
• emeralds and rubies, often combined with pearls and polki,
• iconic forms such as the satlada, chandbali, karanphool and chintaak.

Hyderabad also sits at the meeting point of Deccani and Telugu traditions, so you will also find temple jewellery, vaddanams and kasulaperu here. Read Nizami Jewellery.

Jaipur

Jaipur is famous for its gemstone trade and for Rajasthani royal jewellery.

Signatures:

• kundan and jadau work, with stones embedded in gold,
• meenakari enamel, often on the reverse of pieces,
• polki and bold coloured gemstones, especially emeralds,
• statement bridal pieces such as the borla, aad and large nath.

See Marwari and North Indian Bridal Jewellery in Hyderabad.

Kolkata

Kolkata is known for fine, intricate goldsmithing and a distinctive Bengali bridal style.

Signatures:

• delicate filigree and fine handwork,
• lightweight gold designs with detailed patterns,
• Bengali bridal pieces, such as the tikli (forehead ornament) and sita haar (layered necklace),
• shakha and pola, white conch-shell and red coral bangles worn by married women, sometimes with gold.

Chennai

Chennai is a centre of South Indian temple jewellery and traditional Tamil gold.

Signatures:

• temple jewellery with Lakshmi, peacock and mango motifs,
• kemp stones, red and green, often with small pearls,
• heavy 22K gold, including the oddiyanam (waist belt) and manga malai (mango necklace),
• diamond nose studs and earrings in traditional designs.

See Temple Jewellery.

Mixing styles well

Many families today wear pieces from different traditions. A few tips help:

• Choose one style to lead, such as Hyderabadi pearls or Jaipur polki, and let other pieces support it.
• Look for shared elements, such as pearls, polki or similar stone colours, to link pieces.
• Match the metal tone, usually warm yellow gold.
• Balance weight and scale, so one heavy piece does not overwhelm the rest.
• Think about the occasion: traditional ceremonies may call for one regional style, while receptions allow more mixing.

For terms you will hear across these styles, read The Language of Hyderabadi Jewellery: A 40-Term Glossary.

At Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet, whose story began near Charminar in 1920, Hyderabadi traditions are at the heart of what we do.

Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet

Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008

Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8:30pm
Phone: +91 88855 00805
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Instagram: @tibarumalandsons