Polki vs Kundan vs Jadau: The Differences, Explained Simply
Polki, kundan and jadau are three of the most loved words in Indian bridal jewellery, and three of the most confused. They are often used interchangeably, but they mean different things. Put simply: polki is a stone, kundan is a setting style, and jadau is the craft. Here is what each one means.
Polki
Polki refers to natural uncut diamonds. Instead of being cut into brilliant facets like a modern solitaire, polki diamonds keep much of their natural rough shape, with a flat or gently shaped surface.
The result is a soft, glowing look rather than a bright sparkle. Polki has been used in Indian jewellery for centuries, especially in the royal courts of the Mughals, the Rajputs and the Nizams of Hyderabad.
Because polki diamonds are real diamonds, polki jewellery is typically the most valuable of the three styles. To learn how polki is judged and priced, read Uncut Diamonds (Polki): How They Are Graded, Set and Priced.
Kundan
Kundan traditionally refers to a setting technique in which stones are held in place with layers of highly refined gold foil. The word "kundan" itself is associated with very pure gold.
Today, the term is used in two ways:
- Traditional kundan setting: the technique used to set precious stones, including polki, in gold.
- Market "kundan" jewellery: a popular, more affordable style that uses glass or synthetic stones in a kundan-style setting, often in gold-plated or lower-carat metal.
This is where most of the confusion comes from. If a piece is described as "kundan", always ask what the stones are and what metal is used.
Jadau
Jadau is the craft of embedding stones into gold. A skilled craftsman, known as a jadiya, heats the gold until it is soft, then presses the stones into place without prongs or claws. The stones are held securely by the gold itself.
Jadau pieces are often finished with meenakari, colourful enamel work, on the back. Turning a jadau necklace over and seeing the enamelled reverse is part of the joy of owning one. You can read more in Meenakari and Nakshi Work.
In practice, many of the finest traditional pieces combine all three: polki diamonds, set using the kundan technique, through jadau craftsmanship.
Price and care differences
Price: the biggest factor is what the stones are. Polki jewellery, which uses natural diamonds, sits at the top. Jadau pieces with precious stones are also valuable, reflecting both materials and hours of skilled work. Market kundan with glass stones is usually far more affordable. In every case, the gold weight and purity also affect the price.
Care: all three styles need gentle handling:
- avoid water, perfume and lotions, which can dull foil backings and enamel,
- wipe gently with a soft, dry cloth after wearing,
- store each piece separately in a soft pouch or lined box,
- have pieces checked by a jeweller if a stone feels loose.
Which suits which occasion
- Polki: bridal sets, heirloom pieces and major family occasions. A polki set is often bought to be passed down.
- Jadau with precious stones: weddings, receptions and festive events where you want colour and craftsmanship.
- Market kundan: occasional festive wear, sangeet and mehendi functions, or when you want a big look at a lower cost.
For a closer look at a favourite bridal piece, see Polki Chokers: How to Style Them and What to Look For. Unfamiliar terms? Our Hyderabadi jewellery glossary explains them.
To see polki and jadau jewellery in person, visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet.
Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet
Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8:30pm
Phone: +91 88855 00805
WhatsApp: Message us on WhatsApp
Instagram: @tibarumalandsons
