Uncut Diamonds (Polki): How They Are Graded, Set and Priced

Heritage

Sep 25

Polki jewellery is one of the great treasures of Indian bridal tradition. Made with natural uncut diamonds, it has a soft, luminous glow that modern cut diamonds do not. But because polki is so different from a regular diamond, buyers often have questions about quality and price. This guide explains what an uncut diamond is, how polki is judged, how it is set, and what makes one piece cost more than another.

What an uncut diamond is

A polki is a natural diamond that has not been cut into the many facets of a modern brilliant cut. It is typically sliced or lightly shaped to create a flat top surface, while keeping much of its original form.

This minimal cutting gives polki its character. Instead of throwing sparkle, a polki diamond glows. Each stone has its own shape, so no two polki pieces are exactly alike.

For how polki compares with kundan and jadau, read Polki vs Kundan vs Jadau: The Differences, Explained Simply.

Grading and quality cues

Polki is not graded on the same international scale as cut diamonds, and there is no single standard certificate for it. Quality is judged by eye and experience. When you look at polki jewellery, these are the main cues:

Transparency: better polki is clearer, letting light pass through. Cloudy or opaque stones are lower in value.
Colour: whiter stones are generally more valuable than those with a yellow or brown tint.
Inclusions: visible marks and fractures reduce value. Some natural character is normal.
Size and thickness: larger and thicker stones of good quality are rarer and cost more.
Shape and surface: a flat, even surface and a pleasing shape make a stone more desirable.
Matching: in necklaces and sets, well-matched stones show skill in selection and add to the value.

The same "4Cs" ideas used for cut diamonds still help as a way of thinking. Read The Diamond 4Cs for Indian Buyers for the basics.

Setting styles

Polki is traditionally set using the kundan technique, with refined gold foil pressed around each stone, as part of jadau craftsmanship. Stones are embedded in gold rather than held by claws.

Two details affect how polki looks:

Foil backing: a thin layer of foil is often placed behind each stone to reflect light through it and brighten its glow. This is traditional, but it is worth knowing so you can judge the stone fairly.
Open vs closed settings: most traditional polki has a closed back, often decorated with meenakari enamel. Some contemporary designs use open settings that let light through from behind.

Pricing logic

The price of a polki piece is made up of several parts:

The polki stones, usually priced by weight in carats and adjusted for quality.
The gold, priced on the day's rate for its purity and weight.
Other stones, such as emeralds, rubies, pearls or cut diamonds, priced separately.
Craftsmanship, including jadau setting and meenakari work, which can take many hours.
GST, as applicable.

Ask for a breakdown showing the polki weight, gold weight and other stones separately. Two pieces that look similar can differ greatly in value depending on the quality of the stones and the skill of the work.

Care

Polki jewellery lasts for generations when it is looked after:

Keep it away from water, as moisture can damage foil backings over time.
Put it on last, after perfume, hairspray and makeup.
Wipe it gently with a soft, dry cloth after each wear.
Store it flat and separately, in a lined box or soft pouch, so stones are not scratched or knocked.
Have it checked by your jeweller every so often, especially before a wedding or big event.

For more, read How to Clean Gold and Diamond Jewellery at Home Safely.

Polki and uncut diamond jewellery is a speciality of Hyderabad and the Deccan. To see pieces and ask questions in person, visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet.

Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet

Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008

Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11am to 8:30pm
Phone: +91 88855 00805
WhatsApp: Message us on WhatsApp
Instagram: @tibarumalandsons

Allison Lee