Understanding Gemstone Quality: Emeralds, Rubies and Sapphires

Emeralds, rubies and sapphires have been treasured in Indian jewellery for centuries, from Nizami court pieces to modern bridal sets. Judging their quality is different from judging diamonds, and colour matters most. This guide explains how to assess coloured gemstones and what to know about treatments and certificates.

Colour, clarity and cut for coloured stones

The same basic ideas used for diamonds apply to coloured gemstones, but with different priorities:

• Colour is the most important factor. Look at three things: hue (the basic colour), tone (how light or dark it is), and saturation (how vivid it is). The most valuable stones have strong, even colour that is neither too light nor too dark.
• Clarity matters, but coloured gemstones are expected to have more inclusions than diamonds. Some inclusions are normal and even help identify a stone.
• Cut should show off the stone's colour and brilliance evenly, without dark or washed-out areas.
• Carat weight affects price, and large stones of fine quality are rare.

Emeralds

Emeralds are a variety of the mineral beryl, prized for their rich green colour.

• Colour: the finest emeralds are a vivid, slightly bluish green, neither too dark nor too pale.
• Inclusions: emeralds almost always have visible inclusions, sometimes called the "jardin" (garden). A completely clean emerald is extremely rare.
• Care: emeralds are more fragile than rubies and sapphires, so they need gentle handling and protection from knocks and heat.

Emeralds are especially loved in Hyderabadi jewellery, often paired with polki and pearls. Read Nizami Jewellery.

Rubies

Rubies are a variety of the mineral corundum, coloured red.

• Colour: the most valued rubies are a pure, vivid red, sometimes with a slight purplish tone. The term "pigeon's blood" is used in the trade for the finest red.
• Clarity: fine rubies often have small inclusions, and exceptionally clean stones command high prices.
• Durability: rubies are very hard and suitable for everyday wear.

Sapphires

Sapphires are also corundum, in every colour except red.

• Colour: blue sapphires are the best known, with a rich, velvety blue most prized. Sapphires also come in pink, yellow, white and other colours.
• Clarity: fine blue sapphires often have good clarity, though inclusions are common.
• Durability: like rubies, sapphires are very hard and suit everyday wear.

Treatments and certificates

Many coloured gemstones are treated to improve their appearance. Common treatments include:

• heating, widely used for rubies and sapphires to improve colour and clarity,
• oiling or resin filling, widely used for emeralds to reduce the visibility of fissures,
• other enhancements, some of which significantly affect value and durability.

Treatment is not necessarily a problem, but it should always be disclosed, because untreated stones of the same quality are rarer and more valuable.

For valuable stones, ask for a gemmological report from a recognised laboratory. A report can confirm the type of stone, whether it is natural or synthetic, and whether it has been treated. Read IGI vs GIA Certificates for how lab reports work.

For styling ideas, see Emerald and Ruby Jewellery: Styling for Hyderabad Wardrobes. At Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet, we will explain the details of any gemstone piece you are considering.

Visit Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers, Shaikpet

Tibarumal & Sons Jewellers
Shop No. 102, 8-1-299/121, RP Business Park, Al Hamra Colony, Shaikpet, Hyderabad 500008

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